Oзеро Синевир, Synevyr Lake, the largest mountain lake in Ukraine is crystal clear and located in the Carpathian Mountains. Scientists estimate that it was formed in the post-Ice Age period, about 10 thousand years ago as the result of a powerful, earthquake-induced tectonic shift. The lake belongs to the National natural preserve “Synevyr”, and is known as the “Pearl of the Carpathians,” it has been named one of the Seven Natural Wonders of Ukraine. The forest around the lake is believed to be 140-161 years old. Divers who have explored the bottom have found the remains of fossilized trees still standing upright.
The small island, in the middle of the lake, when seen from above is reminiscent of the pupil of a huge blue eye, hence the name, Sea Eye. At different times, the little rock island is underwater and cannot be seen, such as it is presently. Given the current circumstances, the eye is flooded either with tears or has simply decided to retreat under the depths (which reach in some areas 19-22 meters deep), as a shield from the destruction happening throughout the land. Maybe she is gathering force to rise again, with clarity and power cultivated from the ancient underwater forests of petrified wood.
The painting is in the tones of the heliotrope stone, also called ‘bloodstone.” Heliotrope is an opaque mixture of quartz and jasper, dark green with red flecks which are inclusions of hematite. The word heliotrope, from Ancient Greek ἥλιος (hḗlios) ‘sun’, and τρέπειν (trépein) ‘to turn’), is like a sunflower, and is the symbol of the lost lover. It is said to aid in circulation, fatigue, passivity, strengthen the immune system, detoxify lymph, blood and the heart. In India it is used directly on wounds after dipping it in cold water, to staunch bleeding, which may have a scientific basis, given that iron oxide, contained in the stone, is an effective astringent.
It has been referred to as the “stone of Babylon” and attributed to having several magical properties, such as giving the wearer the power of invisibility. It is said to be a stone of strength, presence and courage. The stone has always made me feel grounded and protected.
It was just this stone, the last thing I gave him in the airport before we parted in 2021. I knew he would need it, I didn’t know why, and at the time neither of us knew what it would come to symbolize. I had brought it with me intended as a small gift because the stone had always reminded me of his solid courage and strength, as well as the color of both of our eyes. Since the full-scale russian invasion of Ukraine, I have carried my bloodstone everywhere I go, it is the size of my hand, hard, sturdy, strong, a resilient stone that I even hold in my sleep. I have vivid memories of walking to work in the dark mornings of winter last year, slipping on black ice, holding the stone in my pocket as if holding his hand.
By now my bloodstone is heavy due to the thickness of the prayers it holds. I traveled this year to the city where his loved ones now reside, with three small bloodstones. After exploring and deciding on the perfect spot to leave the stones, on the last day, I returned to a specific lookout point, a plaque stating that this is the one point on the Mediterranean where you can see the most vast expanse of the sea. After setting this intention: I have a stone, there is one in Ukraine with you and now your family each have one, we are all connected in love and protection over you.
There, were what I call “mermaid coves” all around this spot, I scattered the stones from different points along this coastline from the high cliffs, into the sea. The morning I left them there, I counted no less than 8 different currents coming from all directions and crashing, sometimes gently and others times with more force, rushing and meeting one another. This wonder spoke as metaphor for all of what comes to us in life, all the love and pain, all the experiences, the people we meet and the animals who cross our paths, the concept of holistic us and earth. All of the currents coming towards us and leaving us, sometimes crashing hard into us, other times, caressing and comforting. We find ourselves in the intersection of it all, yet not as separate entity, we are all made of the same water and will return together to the open sea.
Synevyr Lake has a few romantic legends that are rooted in the local folklore, as do most of the environmental landmarks of Ukraine. One of which is the story of Syn, the beautiful daughter of a count who once lived there. It is said that the girl met a shepherd named Vyr, they fell in love. Her father, the count learned of this relationship and disapproved, he ordered his servants to kill Vyr, they did so by throwing a huge rock on him. This rock became the island in the middle of the lake, and was named after the lovers, Syn-e-Vyr. The death of her beloved was such a tragedy for Syn, that the flow of her tears knew no end, the water of the lake is said to be her tears. Two 13m tall standing sculptures, carved from mahogany by the talented Ukrainian craftsmen, Ivan Brody and Mikailo Sanych, stand side by side on the lake shore, a monument to the lovers.
Another legend illustrates a powerful knight, Synevyr who had only one daughter and a white bull. When life took away his daughter and bull, out of anger he destroyed the stones until a stream broke through from under a cliff and spilled into the deep lake. Both legends have, at their center, the common theme of a stone. I imagine our heliotrope stones as treasures, broken pieces from here, protecting us with the mystical powers of the lake and her love stories.
It is the cleanest lake in Ukraine, recreational activities are forbidden, and due to its specific location, there is no wind. The ancient forest provides a lattice sort of backdrop to the scene, these factors must surely imbue a sense of stillness and serenity. I have never been here, but I will one day, hopefully we will journey there together. If that is so, I will offer my stone to Synevyr in gratitude for her protection. If I must journey alone, I will offer my bloodstone in honor of the eternal, immortal love that the lake represents.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synevyr
https://trulyexperiences.com/blog/history-of-bloodstone/
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